Hotwash Report ASC Costa Rica Trip 2012

Surf & Taste of Pura Vida

Guanacaste Hotwash Report: March 6-21, 2012

Transportation	Several airlines service Liberia International Airport (LIR), officially Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, out of the DC, Baltimore and Philadelphia areas. None are non-stop. WAS airports fly American, Delta and Continental (now United) (DCA or IAD) which provide connections through Miami or Dallas, Atlanta and Houston, respectively. This year we selected American out of BWI because it was the most convenient for the price (much easier flying out of BWI at 6am than DCA). Flights were very expensive although we could have saved a couple of hundred dollars per ticket if we had waited until Feb or March to buy out tickets. United now has a direct flight from EWR to LIR that is $100 to $200 less than connecting flights from BWI/DCA. American Airlines was our provider again this year. The seating was okay and we were provided with free soft drinks, but only pay-for snacks. We bought a sandwich in Miami during the layover and a sandwich in Liberia at the German Bakery for the return flight. Check-in and security lines on both ends went quickly. Immigration in Miami went smoothly this year as was a mess. Baggage was also quick in LIR, MIA (through customs) and BWI.It also helped arriving 3 hours before flight departure in Costa Rica to buy your exit card and check your luggage. Check-in at BWI American Airlines went smoothly and my paipo board was charged the $30 second bag fee (first bag was no charge) instead of the $180 the prior year. Thankfully I had repacked to the small board bag. Connections in Miami usually mean a cubano sandwich and cafe cubano at the La Carreta Restaurant (Terminal D- 2nd Level, Exit 39). At the new Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport(Liberia's international airport) everything is spacious, plenty of service windows and it is air conditioned. There are several shops upstairs. The duty free shop as good Nicaraguan rum at very good prices. We stopped at the German Bakery on the way to the airport to order sandwiches to take away. Very tasty, large enough for two people to share and decently priced. Other than the return segment from Liberia, check-in and luggage pick-up went smoothly on both ends. I parked my paipo board at my villa for storage. Copa Airlines - Panama City [begins June 24, 2012] JetBlue Airways - JFK TACA Airlines - San Salvador; TACA Regional operated by Sansa - San José de Costa Rica United Airlines - Newark (some good fares) and Houston-Intercontinental US Airways - Charlotte
Car rental	The past seven years we have rented with Dollar (Liberia and San Jose). Recent experiences: we rented three 4WD vehicles and the process went slowly because we needed racks on each one; we rented a large 4WD and an intermediate sedan and everything went very smoothly and quickly; we rented a large 4WD and a small 4WD; we rented three large 4WD vehicles (all were diesel); and, we rented two large 4WD, both diesel. One had battery problems towards the end of the week which was a pain in the butt. Two years ago (from San Jose) we rented one large 4WD and stowed the boards inside since there were only 3 of us. Last year we rented a large 4WD -- there seemed to be more haggling than usual over insurance coverages and such. This year (2012) the currency conversion rate was okay but there was a hard sell about insurance coverages (how many additional options can they push on you... insurance for windshield, insurance for the tires...). Another aggravation was we reserved a large 4WD manual SUV and waiting for us was a nice late model 4DR 4WD pick-up, something I did not want because of the rigid second seats. Begrudgingly we were provided a medium size, very used SUV (sketchy transmission when shifting at highway speeds or passing). And what is this $10 car wash fee? There was also a long list of potential surcharge fees such as "dirty car fee." Note about San Jose Dollar rental: Dollar Rental slapped a huge conversion fee for Colones to Dollars, or was it Dollars to Colones. Doesn't matter. This cost was hidden and increased the overall rental cost by at least 10 percent. I eventually received $100 credits from Dollar on this. Also, the San Jose Airport daily concession fee was about $10. Consider these guys next time: http://www.acerentacar.com/resdetail.aspx (Toyota Rental Car). Other rental car links at this blogspot. Next trip: get currency conversion rates if they are going to low-ball the rental rate but more than make it up with a bloated currency conversion rate.
Hotel	We stayed at our usual villa set above a semi-secret spot we discovered during a previous trip. The villa overlooks several reef breaks in our cove and another reef break about one-quarter mile away. The villa is not fancy but basic air conditioned rooms are available and the setting is perfect, beautifully landscaped and affordable. Benefits inlcude free Wi-Fi. In years past the room rate included breakfast, a continental plate of either fruit or gallo pinto with eggs and coffee. We often ordered something extra off the breakfast menu, e.g., the excellent gallo pinto, huevos rancheros, or excellent homemade pancakes. The home fries are excellente as was the egg, bacon and lettuce sandwich. A safe box is an extra $3/daily. We ate nearly all of our reasonably priced meals at the villa. Several excellent restaurants are nearby, both pricier and less expensive, serving a wide range of foods. The setting was excellent for a group like ours spread over 3 or 4 rooms. All rooms opened to a small walk (30 yards) to the pool. To the east of the pool was the bar and open air dining area and to the west was the ocean with a large grassy area. It was easy to find everyone - we just hung out around the pool, in the bar/dining area or on the grassy green overlooking our surf breaks awaiting for the incoming tides to form up the waves. For several years we have received preferred customer and cash discounts. This year, in 2012, the villa moved to an all-inclusive mode of business. Apparently you can now also pay the room rate with each meal period ala carte. All basic drinks are included. The meals provided sufficient variety to keep us happy for two weeks and they made us a couple of special order request meals.
Roads	There are some paved roads from Liberia towards the coast but expect much of the ride to be on graded dirt roads. I like it that way as it keeps out the casual tourist! Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my October 1988 trip). Regardless, 4WD is needed to make it through the stream beds we travel to reach some of our surf spots.
Destination	The Guanacaste coast is a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. The region is varied, offering a wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunities make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girl friend. March and April have been good choices since it is the beginning of the season for south/southwest swells but still in the dry season, and usually the offshore Papagayo winds are still blowing. There is a medical clinic in Tamarindo that is adequate for tetanus shots and medicines. Beyond that we can't comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia. The Tamarindo area is experiencing explosive growth: Burger King, KFC and other chains are now in the town. Shops and boutiques galore. Century 21 and other realtors are everything. Beach access along Langosta and Playa Grande is evaporating as houses and villas are built next to each other with endless walls. Other parts of Costa Rica are experiencing similar development. Areas like Tamarindo, Nosara, Jaco and Hermosa have become Little California's, evening touting their SoCal legends as drawing cards such as Robert August, Corky Carroll, etc.
Weather	March and April are the hottest months. Expect the Papagayos to blow hard and steady heat across Nicaragua into the Guanacaste region. Also expect mixed wind days - we often had offshores in the morning and very late afternoon, but onshore winds starting up around 10am. We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of cold beer and fruit juices at "sodas" or other places, and slowing down our pace. And drinking copious amounts of water. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Lacking rain it makes for very dusty conditions. In 2012, we experienced a highly unusual 2 straight weeks of very high offshore winds -- many days it affected the surf especially in combination of 4 days of Spring tides (extreme highs and lows, an 11 foot swing compared to the normal 7 to 8 foot change.
Surf conditions	There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from waist high to overhead south/southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 2 to 4 feet on the smallest days to solid 4-8' at the standout, outer reef SW exposed breaks. This year we surfed The Wash, Outer Wash, Right Side Wash, my Left Side Wash, but no Turtleheads. All are reef breaks although The Wash is also a point break -- no beach breaks on this trip. The reef breaks are mostly lava, but include some coral, from smooth to jutting. Because of the Papagayos we had several days of low-70s/upper-60s water and maybe one extreme day of mid-60s, but the air was in the low- to mid-90s so it was manageable. The last four days of non-Papagayos brought a return of warm water.
Food	A breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). If you eat comida tipico, i.e., local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. Casado plates are inexpensive, tasty and filling - usually include a choice of meat or fish, rice and beans, a vegetable, potato or yam, and maybe banana chips or egg). There was usually fresh corvina available and good beef as part of the all-inclusive. The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more. We special ordered arroz con pollo a couple of times for dinner. We never ate away. Water was good and people ate salads and vegetables at the hotels without problem, but caveat emptor wherever you might be.
Crime	It exists. Petty crime. During a prior trip, friends had their sandals ripped off during dawn patrols at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving us of our backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error. However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license. They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly. Nicer out in the country where we stayed early during this year's trip but there was a night watchman with rifle nonetheless.
Money	USA dollars were accepted everywhere, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change (a mix of crisp $20, $10, $5 and $1 dollar bills are best). Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. There are several ATM machines in Tamarindo and at some other places. Warning: the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple, i.e., one VISA and one Master Card (my VISA ATM card worked). My average daily costs (not including airfare) were $108/$216 (shared room with a buddy for 7 days and then my wife and I for 8 days). This includes car rental and gas share, lodging [my private room with a/c], food and drinks at the villa, and incidentals (water, misc. supplies). It does not includes the tips given to the villa housekeepers, waiters/bartenders, cosinera and other staff. I am saving board fee costs by parking my board at the villa this year.
Other expenses	You need cash for items like fuel (out in the country), beer and water, and for any meals you might want to buy outside the villa. Many places do not accept credit cards. Most places accept USD currency $20 or less but expect change in colones.
Other activities	What else is there besides surfing, eating, reading, drinking and storytelling? DirecTV access was rumored to be available in a recreation room -- none of us ever ventured over there. The open air bar next to the dining area had a TV (if you needed it!). Bring a WiFi-enabled device if you need connectivity and media.
Surf gear	Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. Being located in a relatively remote location I additionally bring a back-up pair of flippers, other surf gear (e.g., fin socks, leashes, etc.), back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses and lens solutions. Everyone should pack basic medical supplies (see Surfer's List of Supplies below) and ding repair supplies. There are no rental boards near where we stay.
Other gear	Don't forget a flashlight and fresh batteries... you will probably need it. It's one of many items on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs - most of our rooms this year had 3-prong outlets but you never know from room-to-room.

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Last updated on: 09/14/18