Hotwash Report ASC Costa Rica Trip 2009

Surf & Taste of Pura Vida

Guanacaste Hotwash Report: March 9-17, 2010

Transportation	We did something different this year - instead of flying into Liberia we flew into San Jose. More airlines service San Jose and the flight costs are considerably less - around $350 from BWI instead of $650 to Liberia. Flights from PHL to LIR were running around $490, but since one in our party was flying from Orlando for less than $300 vice $650, all three of decided to fly into San Jose this year.None of the flights to Liberia are non-stop. WAS airports fly American, Delta and Continental (BWI, DCA and IAD) which provide connections through Miami or Dallas, Atlanta and Houston, respectively. The Orlando flight was non-stop on JetBlue instead of American connecting in MIA, or driving down to MIA (same price, huh?). American Airlines was our northern provider again this year. The seating was okay and we were provided with free soft drinks, but only pay-for snacks. We bought sandwichs in Miami during the layover. Check-in and security lines on both ends went quickly... once they were open and operating (why do they ask you to arrive 2 to 3 hours early when it is a 6am flight and nobody is on-duty until at least 4:30am or5:00am?). Immigration in Miami went smoothly this year, but customs was a mess -- totally unorganized mass of people funneling between the luggage bins into 4 ill-defined lines for customs. It also helped arriving 3 hours before flight departure in Costa Rica to buy your exit card and check your luggage. No problems with luggage making it through this year. No charge for luggage to Central America on AA; Paul was charged $100 for his board(s) on AA; ditto for Brett on JetBlue. The Immigration line in San Jose took more than an hour. The exit tax line was quick and smooth. Check-in at American also took more than an hour (maybe complicated by an earlier flight that was ppd. for 4 hours). Connections in Miami usually mean a cubano sandwich and cafe cubano at the La Carreta Restaurant (Terminal D- 2nd Level). Terminal D now has a large La Carreta inside the terminal. At the San Jose International Airport the food options are rather limited to American fast food chains, and expensive. Flying in/out of San Jose certainly adds a lot of travel time and the airport delays seem to be a lot worse than Liberia (check-in, immigrations). Our Baltimore-area airport flights leave around the same time for flights to Liberia and San Jose (6am) and arrive about the same time. However, logistics in Liberia are easier, i.e., immigration, baggage claim and car rental pick-up/drop-off. Travel time from Liberia to the beach is about 1.5 hours and from San Jose is 3.5 to 4 hours, and could be worse if there is an accident along the mostly 2-lane Pan American Highway. No late afternoon surf sessions when you fly into San Jose - matter of fact you arrive in darkness.
Car rental	The past six years we have rented with Dollar (Liberia and San Jose). Recent experiences: we rented three 4WD vehicles and the process went slowly because we needed racks on each one; we rented a large 4WD and an intermediate sedan and everything went very smoothly and quickly; we rented a large 4WD and a small 4WD; we rented three large 4WD vehicles (all were diesel); and, we rented two large 4WD, both diesel. This year we rented one large 4WD and stowed the boards inside since there were only 3 of us. Rates were about the same as last year. In San Jose you head to the Dollar counter at the airport and a van is called for pick-up; in Liberia a van is outside the airport ready to pick us up. There was no haggling over insurance coverage (we used our credit cards and bought the mandatory Costa Rica insurance, of course, about $15/day). The 4WD was a premium turbo diesel, automatic. Last year, Brett's total charge was $520 for 9 days. This year it cost $650 for 8 days - Dollar Rental slapped a huge conversion fee for Colones to Dollars, or was it Dollars to Colones. Doesn't matter. This cost was hidden and increased the overall rental cost by at least 10 percent. Also, the San Jose Airport daily concession fee was about $10. All vehicles were in good shape although mine had alot of mileage. BTW, keep your eye out for diesel/gas wherever you are staying. We did find diesel in a small fishing village. Look for signs as you travel around. Consider these guys next time: http://www.acerentacar.com/resdetail.aspx (Toyota Rental Car). Other rental car links at this blogspot. Next trip: get currency conversion rates if they are going to low-ball the rental rate but more than make it up with a bloated currency conversion rate.
Hotel	This trip we stayed at a villa set above a semi-secret spot we discovered during a previous trip. The villa overlooks several reef breaks in our cove and another reef break about one-quarter mile away. The villa is not fancy but basic air conditioned rooms are available and the setting is perfect, beautifully landscaped and affordable. Benefits inlcude free internet Wi-Fi and a common use internet computer in the lobby. For breakfast, a continental plate is included (it is either a fruit plate or gallo pinto with eggs) with your room and coffee is available all morning. We often ordered something extra off the breakfast menu, e.g., the excellent gallo pinto, huevos rancheros, or excellent homemade pancakes. The home fries are excellente as was the egg, bacon and lettuce sandwich. A safe box is an extra $3/daily. We ate nearly all of our reasonably priced meals at the villa. Several excellent restaurants are nearby, both pricier and less expensive, serving a wide range of foods. The setting was excellent for a group like ours spread over 3 or 4 rooms. All rooms opened to a small walk (30 yards) to the pool. To the east of the pool was the bar and open air dining area and to the west was the ocean with a large grassy area. It was easy to find everyone - we just hung out around the pool, in the bar/dining area or on the grassy green overlooking our surf breaks awaiting for the incoming tides to form up the waves. This year we received preferred customer and cash discounts.
Roads	There are some paved roads from Liberia towards the coast but expect much of the ride to be on graded dirt roads. I like it that way as it keeps out the casual tourist! Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my October 1988 trip). Regardless, 4WD is needed to make it through the stream beds we travel to reach some of our surf spots.
Destination	The Guanacaste coast is a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. The region is varied, offering a wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunities make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girl friend. March and April have been good choices since it is the beginning of the season for south/southwest swells but still in the dry season, and usually the offshore Papagayo winds are still blowing. There is a medical clinic in Tamarindo that is adequate for tetanus shots and medicines. Beyond that we can't comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia. The Tamarindo area is experiencing explosive growth: Burger King, KFC and other chains are now in the town. Shops and boutiques galore. Century 21 and other realtors are everything. Beach access along Langosta and Playa Grande is evaporating as houses and villas are built next to each other with endless walls. Other parts of Costa Rica are experiencing similar development. Areas like Tamarindo, Nosara, Jaco and Hermosa have become Little California's, evening touting their SoCal legends as drawing cards such as Robert August, Corky Carroll, etc.
Weather	March and April are the hottest months. Expect the Papagayos to blow hard and steady heat across Nicaragua into the Guanacaste region. Also expect mixed wind days - we often had offshores in the morning and very late afternoon, but onshore winds starting up around 10am. We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of cold beer and fruit juices at "sodas" or other places, and slowing down our pace. And drinking copious amounts of water. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Lacking rain it makes for very dusty conditions.
Surf conditions	There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from waist high to overhead south/southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 2 to 4 feet on the smallest days to solid 4-7' at the standout, outer reef SW exposed breaks. This year we only surfed The Wash and Turtleheads, both reef breaks although The Wash is also a point break -- no beach breaks on this trip. The reef breaks are mostly lava, but include some coral, from smooth to jutting. We lacked the normal Papagayo's strong offshore winds (20+ kts) this year until the last two days -- good coincidence since the good swell arrived then as well; generally the winds tended to start flowing on-shore by mid-morning and could be strong in the afternoon, but we usually had some clean-up late in the afternoon. Water was warm throughout, probably in the lower-80s.
Food	A breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). If you eat comida tipico, i.e., local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. Casado plates are inexpensive, tasty and filling - usually include a choice of meat or fish, rice and beans, a vegetable, potato or yam, and maybe banana chips or egg). There was usually fresh dorado and tuna available. The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more. We special ordered arroz con pollo at least 5 times for dinner (and lunch). We only ate out twice: pizza one night and burritos at a beach shack for lunch one day. Water was good and people ate salads and vegetables at the hotels without problem, but caveat emptor wherever you might be.
Crime	It exists. Petty crime. During a prior trip, friends had their sandals ripped off during dawn patrols at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving us of our backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error. However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license. They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly. Nicer out in the country where we stayed early during this year's trip but there was a night watchman with rifle nonetheless.
Money	USA dollars were accepted everywhere, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change (a mix of crisp $20, $10, $5 and $1 dollar bills are best). Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. There are several ATM machines in Tamarindo and at some other places. Warning: the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple, i.e., one VISA and one Master Card (my VISA ATM card worked). My average daily costs (not including airfare) were $140 (this includes car rental and gas share, lodging [my private room with a/c], food and drinks at the villa, two meals at nearby restaurants, and incidentals (water, misc. supplies and tips for the villa housekeepers, waiters/bartenders, cosinera and other staff).
Other expenses	You need cash for items like fuel (out in the country), beer and water, and for any meals you might want to buy outside the villa. Many places do not accept credit cards.
Other activities	What else is there besides surfing, eating, reading, drinking and storytelling? DirecTV access was rumored to be available in a recreation room -- none of us ever ventured over there. The open air bar next to the dining area had a TV (if you needed it!).
Surf gear	Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. But, next time I will take a back-up pair of flippers, back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses and lens solutions. Everyone should pack basic medical supplies (see Surfer's List of Supplies below) and ding repair supplies. There are no rental boards near where we stay.
Other gear	Don't forget a flashlight and fresh batteries... you will probably need it. It's one of many items on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs - most of our rooms this year had 3-prong outlets.

Back to Costa Rica 2010 Home Page

All images within this section copyright of

respective credited contributor.

This web site is hosted and maintained by rodNDtube.com

eMail me at: rodNDtube

Last updated on: 09/14/18