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Tuesday,
January 13,
2009
PdP
Sunny and
clear,
air mid 80s, water ~mid-70s (trunks & short sleeve lycra, really
nice!)
2-4' and clean
with a light current
Not sure
(no big
deal with less than a 2 foot tide swing)
Only 2 of us (Cesar, a bodyboarder)
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Checked
out the spot early and decided to grab a cafe' con leche and make a
"visit" at the local panaderia. Drove back to the spot and a guy was
checking it out. I popped my contacts in, suited up, and waxed my
board. As I headed out I noticed the other guy was getting ready and
joined me shortly thereafter. We shared lots of fun waves with just
enough curl to provide an occassional veranda style tube and some fun
side slipping and cutbacks. Cesar and I talked story and rode the waves
for about two hours before the winds picked up and then called it
quits. Stopped over to the local computer shop to troubleshoot my WiFi
problems at the Villa - turns out the duen~o also installed the WiFi at
the Villa. Jimmy will check it out later in the day or ealry the next
morning. Grinds: Lunch sandwiches at the IC Bakery south of Rincón where the WiFi connection was working.
We attended a Puerto Rican Winter League playoff game on Tuesday night.
I gotta say, "I love baseball in Puerto Rico!" My local team, the
Mayagüez Indians (playing in Aguadilla this year) were playing
against the regular season champs, the Ponce Leones (they are stocked
with several good former and current players from MLB and the Minors).
The caliber of play is generally comparable to AA+ or AAA in the USA.
What sets aside the game is the ATMOSPHERE! The Lions fans sat on the
3rd base side, about 1/3 of the small stadium and the Indios in the
other two-thirds. Each groups has numerous fans with noisemakers and
also make liberal use of clacking the metal seats. Really awesome are
the conga groups of fans that move into a furious drum beat during game
rallies, competing synopating beats through out the stadium. Stadium
food? Nothing like home. Pinchos are made right outside the stadium and
passed through the gates, yummy pork or chicken. for $2/stick. Peanuts
are 50 cents/bag. The Indios were knocked out of the playoffs but we
are tempted to drive up to Arecibo or down to Ponce for a game. |

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Wednesday,
January 14,
2009. Did
the early morning surf patrol to no avail. Well, at least I confirmed
that the road at Wilderness was passable (not the case last year where
it was full of mud holes and bogs. Did find what appeared to be an
alternate road through the fields but a decomposing cow was in the
middle so I left that alternative route to another day. The good news
was that the WiFi had been tweaked at the villa so I now had a working
connection like eveyrone else. Spent rest of the day catching up with
e-mail and being a lazy vacationer. Some more showers today -- this is unusual for this time of year.
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Thursday, January 15, 2009. Another
lazy day with flat surf conditions along the west coast and really
small waves along the northern exposures. Caught a movie (Doubt) after dinner at RicoMini.
Fireworks for the day were provided midway through the movie when a
couple of folks became agitated with one another apparently over a
little girl making some noise and then a few others got involved with
lot's of macho postering. At least they left, pushing, shoving and
yelling all the way out.
Friday, January 16, 2009. Another
lazy day with flat surf conditions along the west coast and really
small waves along the northern exposures. Gotta wait a few more days
but it looks like the swells will finally be switching from the ENE to
something with more of a NW orientation which means waves along my
turf. My reefs breaks and winds handle the W to NNE swells better given
the same swell size on the ENE and prevailing easterlies. Still no o/h
surf in the forecast... we need a big ass storm up in the States!
Caught a movie, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, after sandwiches at RicoMini. Good show.
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------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/16 1pm 2 - 5 ENE 59 5.5 7.7 13 - 17 ENE 52 1/17 7am 2 - 5 NNE 22 5.2 8.3 8 - 10 ENE 50 1/18 7am 2 - 5 NE 33 4.9 8.7 7 - 9 E 94 1/19 7am 2 - 5 N 351 5.0 9.4 5 - 7 ESE 105 1/20 7am 2 - 4 N 1 4.4 8.6 6 - 8 SE 136 1/21 7am 1 - 3 NNE 21 3.6 7.7 4 - 5 ESE 115 1/22 7am 2 - 5 NNW 339 4.8 9.1 7 - 10 ESE 107
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Saturday, January 17, 2009 - morning
Domes
Partly sunny with some side shore winds but cleaner than up north
2-4' with relatively punchless waves
Not sure
Initially about 5 of us but within a half hour at least 20 |
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Hit
the road at 6:30am and headed to Wilderness. Hit rain at Puntas all the
way until decending the hill at Ramey Base. Water was very choppy and
crumbly. Drove all the way down to the Wilderness break where two guys
were making idle chit chat. After about 5 minutes of thinking about it,
I decided to head back south. In short order a caravan of about 10
vehicles starts arriving. Then nobody for the next five minutes.
Interesting. Or not.
Grinds: Stopped for a coffee and
bischochito de guayaba and decided, what the hell, might as well check
out Domes. Only about 5 people were out in the cleaner waves. Even
though it looked rather punchless there was no doubt that some exercise
was in order. After about an hour I caught one in and headed back to my
villa. Surf forecast is looking alright for next week.
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SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD
WIND WND/DIR
(ft) (deg)
(ft) (sec) (kts) (deg)
------- -------- ----- ------ -------
-------
1/17 7am 2 - 5 NNE
20 5.6 8.3 10 -
13 NE 45
1/17 1pm 3 - 6 NE
32 5.3 9.8
5 - 7 ENE 52
1/18 7am 2 - 5 NE
36 4.9 8.9
7 - 10 ESE 123
1/19 7am 3 - 6 N
352 5.4 9.3
5 - 7 ESE 126
1/20 7am 2 - 4
N 4 4.5
9.0 5 - 7 SE 130 1/21 7am 1 - 3 NE
30 3.5 8.3
7 - 10 SE 135 1/22 7am 3 - 6 NNW
343 5.2 10.7 5
- 7 ESE 128 1/23 7am 2 - 5 NNW
335 4.9 9.1
5 - 7 E 88
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Sunday, January 18, 2009
Did not surf
Mostly sunny with some showers during the day
looked like small waves in the area
Not a factor
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Memorial Paddle for Duke Michael at Tres Palmas, 3pm. "The Loss of a Legend - Just
before Christmas a pioneer of Puerto Rican surf culture was lost and
the boricua surf community is still coming to grips with the passing of
Edward "Duke" Michael (SurfCaribe article). Duke, along with Dan Herlihy, were great
inspirations for us grommets back in the late-60s along the Puerto
Rican west coast. Probably not the best of role models for us kids and
teens, but they turned out okay ;) With no surf shops in the area at
the time, they were always sharing scraps of foam for ding repairs, and
doing some fix-ups on... Read More nasty board breaks or fin breaks as
a reasonable price. And, of course, they led the way in riding Tres
Palmas and many other spots.
See some pictures I took of the gathering on the beach and the circle of solidarity out towards Tres Palmas.
7:30pm Ravens vs. Steelers AFC Championship
Game. The best team lost! No regrets. The Raven's season exceeded all
expectations we had at the beginning of the year, especially with a
rookie coach and a rookie QB pressed into duty early. The Ravens have a
promising future next year if we don't lose our defensive coordinator
to a head coaching job and can't get a great replacement and if we can
hold on to the core of our defensive corps.
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Monday,
January 19, 2009 -
morning
PdP and Little Teapou
Sunny and glassy all morning
3-7' foot and shifting peaks and current; 2-5' clean and no current
Don't know - seemed kinda on the low side
Solo session; 2nd session, mostly a couple of bodyboarders and shortboarders
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Surf Is Back In Session.
Paddled out solo at 7am and caught several waves until going in around
8am. Waves were mixed up with a combo NNE and NNW swell running and the
clean-up sets could be nasty with the current pushing me south. Caught
a few rights because they were too tempting and paid the price on the
last one when a clean-up set rolled through along with the usual waves
pushing through on the shallows. Also caught some ripping fast lefts
but there were a couple that I really craved for that rolled through
just a little too much to the right or left. Beautiful clean water. Met Edwin and a couple of the other regulars.
Headed to Little Teapoo to see if it were working mas regular. There were
about 4 bodyboarders out and two short boarders suiting up. I followed
shortly behind and as we all paddled out the 4 bodyboarders paddled
over to TDLR, which was breaking nicely but not like it can with
another couple of feet. We shared waves for about an hour before two
more bodyboarders joined us and we basically rotated around nicely. Did
I mention that some of the set waves rolled throught and jacked
straight up and produced a barelling peak like fun to slide into? After
about another hour the 4 body boarders paddled back and after catching
a nice right line I went in, made a coffee and empanadialla run and
went back to the beach to enjoy the meal and weather. I am ready for
some more tomorrow.
------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/19 7am 2 - 5 N 353 5.0 9.4 6 - 8 ESE 121 1/19 1pm 2 - 5 N 352 4.9 9.2 5 - 7 SE 147
1/20 7am 2 - 4 N 5 4.3 9.0 6 - 8 ESE 122 1/21 7am 1 - 3 NE 30 3.5 8.6 7 - 10 ESE 101 1/22 7am 3 - 7 NNW 335 4.8 12.7 5 - 7 ESE 108 1/23 7am 2 - 5 NNW 341 4.9 9.6 7 - 9 ESE 112 1/24 7am 2 - 5 N 357 5.0 9.8 7 - 10 E 96 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 357 4.7 8.2 11 - 14 ENE 75
When:
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Tuesday,
January 20, 2009
Did not surf
Clear skies
Small surf at Domes
Not Sure
N/A |
Inauguration Day. Small surf today so did the vacationer's thing and watched part of the inaugural proceedings.
------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/20 7am 2 - 4 N 5 4.3 9.1 6 - 8 ESE 115 1/20 1pm 2 - 4 NNE 11 4.0 8.8 5 - 7 SE 135
1/21 7am 1 - 3 NE 30 3.5 8.6 7 - 9 ESE 113 1/22 7am 2 - 5 NNW 343 4.0 12.1 5 - 7 ESE 117 1/23 7am 2 - 5 NNW 343 4.8 9.7 7 - 9 E 98 1/24 7am 2 - 5 N 350 4.9 9.3 8 - 11 E 93 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 359 4.3 8.3 11 - 14 ENE 71 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE 13 3.9 6.9 11 - 15 ENE 65
When:
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Wednesday,
January 21, 2009
Nowhere, everywhere
Rain, rain, rain.
Nearly flat, swell fills in overnight
N/A
Did not surf
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SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD
WIND WND/DIR
(ft) (deg)
(ft) (sec) (kts) (deg)
------- -------- ----- ------ -------
-------
1/21 7am 1 - 3 NNE
29 3.5 8.6
4 - 5 ESE 123 1/22 7am 2 - 4 NNW
347 3.9 9.1
4 - 5 ENE 63 1/23 7am 3 - 6 NNW
340 5.4 9.9
5 - 8 ESE 121 1/24 7am 2 - 5 N
351 5.0 9.1
7 - 10 ENE 74 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N
357 4.5 8.1
9 - 13 ENE 68 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE
12 3.9 6.9 11 -
15 ENE 72 1/27 7am 1 - 3 NE
39 4.3 6.0 12 -
16 ENE 76
When:
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Thursday,
January 22, 2009 -
morning
PdP
Sunny/lo-80s
Extremely glassy and clear water in 3-7' and a light current
Not Sure
Myself, a couple of bodyboarders and a shortboarder
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Caught some kick-ass surf in the
3-7' range this morning. It was so
glassy until the winds starting blowing around 11am. The reef was very,
very clear. Not many fish sighted however. It was so awesome seeing the
reef mutate shape as you rose up in a 5 foot glassy, clear face about
ready to break.
Despite a generally rising swell throughout the day the waves were
consistently largest early this morning when I was still doing a solo
session. Later in the morning with some tide filling in the waves
became a very consistent 4 to 5 feet with the occassional overhead
clean-up wave (usually in sets of only one or two waves). Edwin was in
the water again - he is on vacation for two months from his job as a
policeman in Bayamon (that is one hell of a daily commute!).
I am exhausted after four hours of non-stop riding and paddling.
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------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/22 7am 2 - 4 NNW 347 3.9 9.1 4 - 6 E 88 1/22 1pm 3 - 6 NNW 335 4.8 11.0 2 - 3 ESE 115 1/23 7am 3 - 6 NNW 338 5.6 10.3 6 - 9 ESE 106 1/23 1pm 3 - 7 NNW 347 5.9 10.6 3 - 5 ESE 109 1/24 7am 2 - 5 NNW 349 5.3 9.2 7 - 9 E 86 1/24 1pm 2 - 5 N 359 4.9 9.6 4 - 6 ESE 103 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 0 4.4 8.1 9 - 13 ENE 73 1/25 1pm 1 - 3 N 7 4.1 7.9 6 - 8 ENE 68 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE 18 3.7 7.0 9 - 12 ENE 76 1/26 1pm 1 - 2 NNE 17 3.5 6.7 7 - 9 ENE 51 1/27 7am 1 - 2 NE 39 3.6 5.9 10 - 14 ENE 75
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Friday, January 23, 2009 - morning
TDLR
Sunny/lo-80s
Sunny, fairly clear water green-blue and 6-8' w/lot's of 10' sets
Not Sure but looked to be going from high to low
About 3 to 5 shortboarders and myself
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Salt and Pepper Sessions. Paddled
out to join about 4 others around 7:30am. Waves were very clean -
nobody was set up on the far peak and today was not my day to that
either. I setup on the more inside last peak where plenty of good
waves in the 6-8' were rolling through. Caught only three over the
course of the next 45 minutes as I was very tentative and my right
elbow started to pain me. Rode my third non-descript wave in and
grabbed some coffee and drove over to Little Teapoo to watch about 8
bodybaorders and the TLDR in the distance. Took some advil. After about
an hour my elbow started to feel better and the waves were too good to
pass up. Paddled back out and had one of my best sessions of the trip,
feeling very comfotable and ready to ride. Stayed out for about 2 hours
when the wind started to pick up and make the waves more crumbly and
less consistent. Once tube wall collapsed on my back - I probably have
welts! Stopped for an ice cold heiny at my usual colmado. La vida es
buena!
------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/23 7am 3 - 6 NNW 339 5.6 10.3 6 - 9 ESE 111 1/23 1pm 3 - 7 NNW 347 6.0 10.6 2 - 2 ESE 110 1/24 7am 3 - 6 NNW 349 5.5 9.2 5 - 7 ENE 57 1/24 1pm 3 - 6 N 359 5.3 9.6 4 - 5 E 94 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 358 4.4 8.2 8 - 10 ENE 77 1/25 1pm 2 - 4 N 0 4.3 7.9 6 - 9 ENE 51 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE 15 4.2 7.2 10 - 14 E 81 1/26 1pm 1 - 3 NNE 19 4.0 6.7 10 - 14 ENE 57 1/27 7am 1 - 3 NE 45 4.8 6.0 13 - 18 ENE 77
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When:
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Saturday, January 24, 2009 TDLR
Sunny/lo-80s
Sunny, fairly clear water green-blue and 5-7' w/lot's of 8'+ sets
Not Sure but looked to be going from high to low
Myself; a couple of shortboarders paddled out later
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Ay Bendito.
Checked a couple of spots early, grabbed a cup of coffee and reconoited
once again. A number of bodyboarders were suiting up and paddling out
at Little Teapoo and TDLR was starting to look good. Put my gunk on to
keep the sunrays at bay and paddled
out solo. Thought it was going to be in the 4-6 foot range this
morning, and it was initially. Before too long the bigger sets started
rolling in. Had trouble dialing in initially and flailed on my first 4
or 5 attempts at catching a wave. After making a couple of adjustments
to this morning's more westerly swell it was non-stop wave action for
the next 90 minutes at which point my right elbow had flared up badly
enough that it was time to call it quits. This is not a break where you
want to be anywhere below 80 percent and I am already pushing it by
carrying several extra pounds.
It was a little spookey at times being out at TDLR solo but the sun was
shining and the conditions were very glassy. Once the sun had risen far
enough in the horizon to make out my line-up points I was good to go.
My wave of the day was a solid 8' wave with a good solid wall that I
nearly didn't make the drop on. Just as the lip was about to throw me
like a ping pong ball to the wind I pulled in, slip down that face and
made a cranking bottom turn shooting back up to the feathering top,
turned back down hard and into the lip and shot out to the top and down
as the lip covered me over. Easily the trip wave.
Post Session Grinds. Grabbed a ham, egg and cheese criollo sandwich and
another coffee and headed back to Little Teapoo to watch about a dozen
bodyboarders and a few shortboarders rip the 4-5' waves and talk story
with a few of the local boys that I'd been riding waves with these past
two weeks. Let me tell ya, thesebodyboarders are good -- they
really knew how to ride these nicely dredging waves.
Later this afternoon we headed into the public beach to attend a 40th
anniversary gathering on the PR World Contest. Once of the photogs from
the contest will be sharing an exhibit of photos. Should be good and
bring back plenty of memories.
------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/24 7am 2 - 5 NNW 349 5.4 9.2 5 - 7 ESE 100 1/24 1pm 2 - 5 N 359 5.2 9.7 2 - 2 E 81 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 358 4.7 8.2 9 - 12 ENE 76 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE 19 4.4 6.9 12 - 17 ENE 70 1/27 7am 1 - 3 NE 47 4.9 6.1 12 - 17 E 81
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When:
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Sunday, January 25, 2009 - early morning hours PdP
Sunny/lo-80s
Sunny, fairly clear water but a little cloudy from the river and 3-5' w/plenty of overhead sets
Not Sure but looked to be going from high to low
Myself; Walter & his two
nephews; Edwin; and a couple of other bodyboarders later. Maybe a dozen
late morning after I'd come in.
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Waves were smaller than
yesterday -- 3 to 5 foot with overhead clean-up
sets. I caught two of these this morning for the best tube rides of the
trip. One was just a huge open face tube spitting right over me as dry
as can be. The other was a thick macker that had be driving down
the
line so fast until it tomahawk chopped me and sent the board and I
flying in opposite directions. Simply another heavenly session. Post
Session Grinds: My favorite local panaderia for a jamon, huevo y queso
criollo sandwich and a cafe which I took back to the break to watch the
wave action. The panaderia/cafeteria had some excellent lechon asado -
hard to pass up!
Grinds: El Cerdito del Cielo. My sweetie had the chillo filet with
special sauce and I had the lechon, arroz con habiluelas and tostones.
Tomorrow will be very small - I might go out for some tight tubitos if it is holding up.
------------------------------------------------------------- SURF SURF DIR SWELL PERIOD WIND WND/DIR (ft) (deg) (ft) (sec) (kts) (deg) ------- -------- ----- ------ ------- ------- 1/25 7am 2 - 4 N 358 4.6 8.2 8 - 11 E 81 1/25 1pm 2 - 4 N 5 4.4 7.8 7 - 9 ENE 58 1/26 7am 1 - 3 NNE 22 4.3 7.0 12 - 16 ENE 76 1/26 1pm 1 - 3 NE 32 4.1 6.7 10 - 13 ENE 59 1/27 7am 1 - 3 NE 49 4.7 5.8 14 - 19 ENE 74
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When:
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Monday, January 26, 2009
Did not surf
Sunny/80s
Swell was running 1-3' Appeared to be low
Did not surf
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Drove
to my usual locale to check the surf. It was running rather small and
memories of yesterday were running strong. Grabbed a coffee and watched
a shortboarder working on his skills at
Agüeybaná. Decided to lay low and take my sweetie to a couple of the shops in town today... hard to believe we had not done that yet!
Turns out most of the shops in town were closed today. Oh well, next
time sweetie. I did pick up two pairs of cheapo flip flops for walking
down to our beach in Costa Rica. So, we decided to catch the matinee (Paul Blart, Mall Cop,
funny and fun to watch). Before dinner at La Ana de Cofresi we
had the "El Pirate," the famous house drink made of several shots of
rum and coconut milk amongst other things. For dinner we hit all those
heavy carbs (rice & bean, sorrullitos, tostones, garlic bread and
black bean soup) along with our entrees of jumbo shrimp and what seemed
like a pound of dorado (mahi mahi). After dinner, we toasted off our
bottle of complimenatry red wine while taking in the evening's episode
of "24."
Swell forecast for the next 5 days is for small easterly trade swell. As good a time as many to head home. |
Tuesday, January 27, 2009. Getaway
Day.
Surveyed
spots from Rincón to... better to go away with memories from two days ago :)
The
trip to the airport in San Juan was mostly uneventful. Check-in
was
hassle-free but paying $40/pp each way for our two checked bags each is
a bitch - these hidden costs really add up. Good news: duty free liquor
at SJU International was back in-play, but you had to be selective in
what your were buying.Some items were only a couple of dollars less and
on other items you paid something more approaching duty-free prices.
We're leaving sunny skies and temps in the 80s for 2-4 inches of snow
with continued precipitation throught the night, turning to freezing
pellets into tomorrow and temps in the 20s. Welcome to the cold north!
Wrap
Up: Surf
was consistent enough throughout the trip to keep me from reading very
much besides the daily paper. Several great sessions were had whether
it was waist to chest or pumping overhead. My last session at PdP
produced two tube rides that became the new "trip waves" and ton's of
fun with my surfing buddies. We had an unusual amount of rain this year
- during the first two weeks in rained or showered almost every day -
happy to say none of it really got in our way of having a good time --
ust very unsual for this time of year. Most importantly, the rain
didn't appear to muddy up the surf breaks. I also took two trips up to
Wilderness this year but didn't paddle out either time - the road was
passable and there might even be a back route (I checked one but a many
day decaying cow straddled most of the road). Never drove further east
than Surfers' Beach. Surfed four breaks this year: Domes, PdP, Little
Teapoo and TDLR. Not a bad mix but still unusual not to ride any of the
north coast breaks for two consecutive years.
Places with accents & unusual spellings:
Agüeybaná | Mayagüéz |
RicoMini | Rincón | Villa Cofresí |
Salsa music on your FM dial: La Zeta, WZNT FM 93.7 (San Juan), WZMT FM
93.3 (Mayagüéz) and WZET FM 92.1 (Ponce).
Computer Repairs, Assistance and Internet/Computer Access (pay):
Backup Computer Store, 2444 Ave. Vistamar Suite 6, Plaza Bonet, Rincon, PR. 00677 (mailing address)
Road 115 Km 12.0, In Plaza Bonet, Near Bonet Liquor Store (about 1 km south of town) Phone: (787) 823-4910
Ask for James Bonet. For a small store they stock a wide variety of equipment and supplies.
Free WiFi Access Point:
EC Bakery, Carr. 115 k.m. 10.9, Rincon, Puerto Rico 00677. Good food, pastries and coffee, too!
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