Hotwash Report ASC Costa Rica Trip 2008

Surf & Taste of Pura Vida

Guanacaste Hotwash Report: April 2-10, 2008

Transportation	Several airlines service Liberia International Airport (LIR) out of the DC, Baltimore and Philadelphia areas. None are non-stop. WAS airports fly American, Delta and Continental (DCA or IAD) which provide connections through Miami or Dallas, Atlanta and Houston, respectively. This year we selected American out of Washington National based upon pricing at the time we booked ($150-$200 savings per ticket). We won't do that again since we had to catch a 6:00 am flight and there were no local hotel park 'n fly deals and the general nuisance of having someone drive you to D.C. Dulles would be a better option, but if we can't fly out of BWI, then PHL works well. American Airlines was our provider again this year. The seating was average, free soft drinks and a peanut-sized package non descript cracker food. Pack something when flying from the USA and Liberia. American Airlines check-in process was Liberia was a breeze this year (much improved over last year's awful experience). It also helped arriving 3 hours before flight departure. Additionally, lines existed everywhere else: immigration, security, check-in (except Delta and Continental customers who were breezing through check-in). The flights south were uneventful. However, the return flights north ended up being tight as American delayed the scheduled departure time from Liberia and moved up the scheduled departure from MIA to DCA. Clearing customs in Miami took over an hour and luggage transfer was confused: one of four bags didn't make it with us, but American delivered this bag to our home the next day. Another person's checked luggage and surfboard were still Missing In Action as of four days later. Connections in Miami usually mean a cubano sandwich and cafe cubano at the La Carreta Restaurant (Terminal D- 2nd Level). At the Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (Liberia's international airport) there is an upstairs cafeteria accessible before clearing security and migration.Counter service in the waiting area includes drinks and sandwiches (typical airport prices). Reports are that USA3000 will have non-stop service from PHL to LIR in 2009. Other than the return segment from Liberia, check-in and luggage pick-up went smoothly on both ends. No charge for my paipo board. Surfboards were charged $70 each way. All board bags and boards were fine (no word on the missing one yet). Pack well and smartly.
Car rental	The past four years we have rented with Dollar. Three years ago we rented three 4WD vehicles and the process went slowly because we needed racks on each one. Two years ago we rented a large 4WD and an intermediate sedan and everything went very smoothly and quickly. Last year we rented a large 4WD and a small 4WD. This year we rented three large 4WD vehicles (all were diesel). Rates were very good (less than one year ago); Dollar was at the airport ready to pick us up; and there was no haggling over insurance coverage (we used our credit cards and bought the mandatory Costa Rica insurance, of course). The 4WD was a premium turbo diesel, automatic. The 8-day rental for the large 4WD cost was $400, inclusive (car, LSI, tax/fees and credit card transaction charge), much better than last year's $615 for the same vehicle class for the same period cost. All vehicles were in good shape and there are many on Dollar's lot. BTW, keep your eye out for diesel/gas wherever you are staying. We did find diesel in a small fishing village. Look for signs as you travel around. Consider these guys next time: http://www.acerentacar.com/resdetail.aspx (Toyota Rental Car). Other rental car links at this blogspot.
Hotel	This trip we stayed at a villa set above a semi-secret spot we discovered during a previous trip. The villa overlooks several reef breaks in our cove and another reef break about one-quarter mile away. The villa is not fancy but basic air conditioned rooms are available and the setting is perfect, beautifully landscaped and affordable. Benefits inlcude free internet Wi-Fi and a common use internet computer in the lobby. For breakfast, a large fruit plate is included with your room and coffee is available 24 hours. We often ordered something extra off the breakfast menu, e.g., the excellent gallo pinto, huevos rancheros, or excellent homemade pancakes. The home fries are excellente as was the egg, bacon and lettuce sandwich. A safe box is an extra $2/daily. We ate nearly all of our reasonably priced meals at the villa. Several excellent restaurants are nearby, both pricier and less expensive, serving a wide range of foods. The setting was excellent for a group like ours spread over 3 or 4 rooms. All rooms opened to a small walk (30 yards) to the pool. To the east of the pool was the bar and open air dining area and to the west was the ocean with a large grassy area. It was easy to find everyone - we just hung out around the pool, in the bar/dining area or on the grassy green overlooking our surf breaks awaiting for the incoming tides to form up the waves. This year we received preferred customer and cash discounts.
Roads	There are some paved roads from Liberia towards the coast but about half of the ride will be on graded dirt roads. I like it that way as it keeps out the casual tourist! Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my October 1988 trip).
Destination	The Guanacaste coast is a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. The region is varied, offering a wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunities make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girl friend. March and April have been good choices since it is the beginning of the season for south/southwest swells but still in the dry season, and usually the offshore Papagayo winds are still blowing. There is a medical clinic in Tamarindo that is adequate for tetanus shots and medicines. Beyond that we can't comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia. The Tamarindo area is experiencing explosive growth: Burger King, KFC and other chains are now in the town. Shops and boutiques galore. Century 21 and other realtors are everything. Beach access along Langosta and Playa Grande is evaporating as houses and villas are built next to each other with endless walls. Other parts of Costa Rica are experiencing similar development. Areas like Tamarindo, Nosara, Jaco and Hermosa have become Little California's, evening touting their SoCal legends as drawing cards such as Robert August, Corky Carroll, etc.
Weather	March and April are the hottest months - the Papagayos blow hard and steady heat across Nicaragua into the Guanacaste region. We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of cold beer and fruit juices at "sodas" or other places, and slowing down our pace. And drinking copious amounts of water. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Lacking rain it makes for very dusty conditions.
Surf conditions	There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from chest high to overhead south/southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 2 to 5 feet on the smallest days to solid 8-10' at the standout, outer reef SW exposed breaks. We surfed a range of point and reef breaks -- no beach breaks on this trip. The reef breaks are mostly lava, but include some coral, from smooth to jutting. We lacked the normal Papagayo's strong offshore winds (20+ kts) this year (maybe becasue of La Niña?); winds tended to start flowing on-shore by mid-morning and could be strong in the afternoon. Water ranged from the upper 70s to 80s. Cooler patches of deep water will welcome with air was so warm.
Food	A breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). If you eat comida tipico, i.e., local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. Casado plates are inexpensive, tasty and filling - usually include a choice of meat or fish, rice and beans, a vegetable, potato or yam, and maybe banana chips or egg). The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more. The outstanding Sicilian restaurant we found last year has relocated to Manhattan (55th Street?) - we really miss this gem that was located on a bluff overlooking a large cove, a mile off the main dirt road, in nowheresville! Water was good and people ate salads and vegetables at the hotels without problem, but caveat emptor wherever you might be.
Crime	It exists. Petty crime. During a prior trip, friends had their sandals ripped off during dawn patrols at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving us of our backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error. However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license. They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly. Nicer out in the country where we stayed early during this year's trip but there was a night watchman with rifle nonetheless.
Money	USA dollars were accepted everywhere, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change (crisp $20 bills, or smaller currencies are best). Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. There are several ATM machines in Tamarindo and at some other places. Warning: the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple, i.e., one VISA and one Master Card (my VISA ATM card worked).
Other expenses
Other activities	What else is there besides surfing, eating, reading, drinking and storytelling? DirecTV access was rumored to be available in a recreation room -- none of us ever ventured over there.
Surf gear	Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. But, next time I will take a back-up pair of flippers, back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses and lens solutions. Everyone should pack basic medical supplies (see Surfer's List of Supplies below).
Other gear	Don't forget a flashlight and fresh batteries... you will probably need it. It's one of many items on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs but our villa did not have a 3-prong outlet.

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Last updated on: 09/14/18