Hotwash Report ASC Costa Rica Trip 2007

Surf & Taste of Pura Vida

Guanacaste Hotwash Report: March 21-29, 2007

Transportation	Several airlines service Liberia International Airport (LIR) out of DC, Baltimore and Philadelphia. None are non-stop. WAS airports fly American, Delta and Continental (DCA or IAD) which provide connections through Miami or Dallas, Atlanta and Houston, respectively. We selected American out of Philadelphia based upon pricing (several hundred dollars per ticket) at the time we booked. Two years ago our large group flew on Delta using a Group Rate; the past two years our smaller groups of 6 and 7 flew on American. Flights were on 737 or 757 service. The seating was average with no meal service on American this year. Pack something when flying from the USA and Liberia. Former advice was to eat a hearty lunch at the Liberia airport before departing since you'll probably have a couple of hours to kill; however, the upstairs cafeteria has gone self-service and appeared overly crowded. Major renovations are underway at LIR. American Airlines check-in process was Liberia was awful this year. I wrote to AA Customer Service and they replied with a sympathetic note and wished me the best in the future. Next year all options will be considered! Check wikipedia for starters. Additionally, lines existed everywhere else: immigration, security, check-in (except Delta and Continental customers who were breezing through check-in). Other than the return segment from Liberia, check-in and luggage pick-up went smoothly on both ends. No charge for my paipo board. Surfboards were charged $70 each way, unless you were flying to Miami (one buddy only paid $45 on the return flight). My board bag was fine but several of the boys' bags were banged up - boards were ok. Pack well and smartly.
Car rental	The past three years we rented with Dollar. Two years ago we rented three 4WD vehicles and the process went slowly because we needed racks on each one. Last year we rented a large 4WD and an intermediate sedan and everything went very smoothly and quickly. This year we rented a large 4WD and a small 4WD. Dollar was at the airport ready to pick us up. No haggling over insurance coverage (we used our credit cards and bought the mandatory Costa Rica insurance, of course). The 4WD was a turbo diesel, manual 5-speed Nissan X-Terra. Last year's 8-day rental for the large 4WD cost $480, inclusive. This year the same vehicle for the same period cost $615, inclusive, although the reservation didn't indicate it would be this much. Other customers said they were haggled about buying extra insurance when they had rented the week before. Other notes: our large SUV had nearly 50k miles on it and the small SUV's battery died two days before our trip ended. The rental agency didn't want to make up the fees we paid for hot shots.No diesel in Tamarindo - nearest place is in Huacas. We did find diesel in a small fishing village. Look for signs as you travel around. Consider these guys next time: http://www.acerentacar.com/resdetail.aspx (Toyota Rental Car). Other rental car links at this blogspot.
Hotel	This trip we stayed at a villa set above a semi-secret spot we discovered during a previous trip. The villa overlooks several reef breaks in our cove and another reef break about one-quarter mile away. The villa is not fancy but basic air conditioned rooms are available and the setting is perfect, beautifully landscaped and affordable. This year there is free internet Wi-Fi and a common use internet computer in the lobby. For breakfast, a large fruit plate is included with your room and coffee is available 24 hours. We often ordered something extra off the breakfast menu, e.g., the excellent gallo pinto, huevos rancheros, or excellent homemade pancakes. A safe box is an extra $3/daily. We ate nearly all of our reasonably priced meals at the villa. Several excellent restaurants are nearby, both pricier and less expensive, serving a wide range of foods. The setting was excellent for a group like ours spread over 3 or 4 rooms. All rooms opened to a small walk (30 yards) to the pool. To the east of the pool was the bar and open air dining area and to the west was the ocean with a large grassy area. It was easy to find everyone - we just hung out around the pool, in the bar/dining area or on the gassy green overlooking our surf breaks awaiting for the incoming tides to form up the waves.
Roads	There are some paved roads from Liberia towards the coast but about half of the ride will be on graded dirt roads. I like it that way as it keeps out the casual tourist! Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my Oct 1988 trip).
Destination	The Guanacaste is a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. The region is varied, offering a wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunities make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girl friend. March and April were good choices since it is the beginning of the season for south/southwest swells but still in the dry season. There is a medical clinic in Tamarindo that is adequate for tetanus shots and medicines. Beyond that we can't comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia. The Tamarindo area is experiencing explosive growth: Burger King, KFC and other chains are now in the town. Shops and boutiques galore. Century 21 and other realtors are everything. Beach access along Langosta and Playa Grande is evaporating as houses and villas are built next to each other with endless walls. Other parts of Costa Rica are experiencing similar development. Areas like Tamarindo, Nosara, Jaco and Hermosa have become Little California's, evening touting their SoCal legends such as Robert August, Corky Carroll, etc.
Weather	March and April are the hottest months - the Papagayos blow hard and steady heat across Nicaragua into the Guanacaste region. We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of cold beer and fruit juices at "sodas" or other places, and slowing down our pace. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Lacking rain it makes for very dusty conditions.
Surf conditions	There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from chest high to overhead south/southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 4 to 5 feet on the smallest days to solid 8-10' at the standout, outer reef SW exposed breaks. We surfed a range of point and reef breaks -- no beach breaks on this trip. The beach breaks featured gradually sloping sand bottoms. The reef breaks included coral and lava rock bottoms, from smooth to jutting. Several days featured Papagayo's strong offshore winds (20+ kts); other days the winds were lighter and variable. Water ranged from the upper 70s to 80s. Cooler patches of deep water will welcome with air was so warm.
Food	A breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). If you eat comida tipico, i.e., local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. Casado plates are inexpensive, tasty and filling - usually include a choice of meat or fish, rice and beans, a vegetable, potato or yam, and maybe banana chips or egg). The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more. During our drive-abouts we found an outstanding Sicilian restaurant located on a bluff overlooking a large cove, a mile off the main dirt road, in nowheresville! Water was good and people ate salads and vegetables at the hotels without problem, but caveat emptor wherever you might be..
Crime	It exists. Petty crime. During a prior trip, friends had their sandals ripped off during dawn patrols at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving us of our backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error. However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license. They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly. Nicer out in the country where we stayed early during this year's trip but there was a night watchman with rifle nonetheless.
Money	USA dollars were accepted everywhere, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change. Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. There are several ATM machines in Tamarindo and at some other places. Warning: the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple (my VISA ATM card worked).
Other expenses
Other activities	What else is there besides surfing, eating, reading, drinking and storytelling? DirecTV access was rumored to be available in a recreation room -- none of us ever ventured over there.
Surf gear	Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. But, next time I will take a back-up pair of flippers, back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses and lens solutions.
Other gear	Don't forget a flashlight and fresh batteries... you will probably need it. It's one of many items on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs but our villa did not have a 3-prong outlet.

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Last updated on 04/11/07