Hotwash Report ASC Costa Rica Trip 2003

Surf & Another Taste of Pura Vida

Guanacaste Hotwash Report: March 22-30, 2006

Transportation	Two airlines fly from Baltimore (BWI) to Liberia International Airport (LIR), via one connection: American Airlines and Delta Airlines, connecting in Miami and Atlanta, respectively. Last year our large group flew on Delta using a Group Rate; this year our smaller group of 6 flew on American. Flights were on 737 or 757 service. The seating was average with no meal service on American this year. Pack something when flying from the USA; eat a hearty lunch at the Liberia airport before departing (you will have two hours to kill anyway). Check-in and luggage pick-up went smoothly on both ends. No charge for my paipo board. Surfboards were charged $80 each way. My board bag was fine but several of the boys' bags were banged up - boards were ok.
Car rental	Both last year and this year we rented with Dollar. Last year we rented three 4WD vehicles and the process went slowly because we needed racks on each one. This year we rented a large 4WD and an intermediate sedan and everything went very smoothly and quickly. Dollar was at the airport ready to pick us up. No haggling over insurance coverage (we used our credit cards and bought the mandatory Costa Rica insurance, of course). The 4WD was a turbo diesel, manual 5-speed Nissan X-Terra. The 8-day rental for the 4WD cost $480, inclusive. We managed with the intermediate, but it wasn't a good choice -- next time we should opt for a small 4WD for the road clearance if nothing else. No diesel in Tamarindo - nearest place is in Huacas. Look for other signs.
Hotel	We stayed at two different villas. The first four days was at a villa in the countryside along the coast and the second four days was at the El Jardín del Edén (also see this link). The Jardín del Edén is still my choice for a return trip to Tamarindo. During the last year it was been extensively renovated; provides free internet access at a common use computer in the lobby; provides amply sized rooms and a couple of apartments that are stocked with mini-frigs at reasonable prices and plenty of room to stock your own refreshments and foods; good bedding, in-room safe, cable TV and air conditioning (recommended for chilling mid-day during our heat wave). The villa also features two pools with ample size to do light swimming and find some shade) with plenty of lounge chairs, small tables and shade and plenty of shrubs and plants. The villa has an excellent restaurant (warning: no longer do you receive a full breakfast of comida tipica, eggs any style, french toast, fresh fruit and squeezed juices, etc. - one choice of juice, coffee, gallo pinto with potatoes, fresh fruit, breads, yogurt and a small sampling of meat and cheese - still plenty good); and a good location. Located up the hill from the beach (directly up from El Diria and Hotel Dolly), it was a short walk (couple hundred meters) to the beach, but located off the busy, noisy and dusty main street of Tamarindo. A good value, priced less than the very nice Diria (located on the beach), about the same as the Best Western Vista Villas (their rooms have better views of Tamarindo Bay but their common areas are not as nice, their rooms appear to be smaller, but this is still a good option), and more than several other places that do not feature such amenities as a/c. A wife or girl friend will not complain. Our first four days were spent at a villa set above a semi-secret spot we discovered on a previous trip. Last year we found the villa overlooking several reef breaks in our cove. The villa is not fancy but basic air conditioned rooms are available and the setting is perfect, beautifully landscaped and affordable. For breakfast, a large fruit plate is included with your room and coffee is available 24 hours. We often ordered something extra off the breakfast menu, e.g., the excellent gallo pinto. A safe box is an extra $3/daily. We ate nearly all of our reasonably priced meals at the villa. Several excellent restaurants are nearby, both pricier and less expensive, serving a wide range of foods. The setting was excellent for a group like ours spread over 3 rooms. All rooms opened to a small walk (30 yards) to the pool. To the east of the pool was the bar and open air dining area and to the west was the ocean with a large grassy area. It was easy to find everyone - we just hung out around the pool, in the bar/dining area or on the gassy green overlooking our surf breaks awaiting for the incoming tides to form up the waves.
Roads	The road from Liberia to Tamarindo used to be a paved, 2-lane highway. The road deteriorated considerably since last year. Except for the first several miles out of Liberia it has become extremely pot-holed - I would prefer driving on the graded dirt roads. Add an easy half-hour for the trip. The roads from Tamarindo to nearby locations are also "paved" for short distances: - to Playa Grande: paved about half-way before turning to graded dirt. No longer! Extensive pot holes and rutts. Repairs are being made but not at a sufficient pace to make a difference. - to Playa Langosta: the turnoff from town immediately turns to graded dirt. There may be a few briefly paved sections in Langosta. Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my Oct 1988 trip).
Destination	Tamarindo was a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. A wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunieis make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girf friend. March and April were good choices since it is the beginning of the season for south/southwest swells but still in the dry season. There is a medical clinic in Tamarindo that is adequate for tetnus shots and medicines. Beyond that we can't comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia. The Tamarindo area is experiencing explosive growth: Burger King, KFC and other chains are now in the town. Shops and boutiques galore. Century 21 and other realtors are everything. Beach access along Langosta and Playa Grande is evaporating as houses and villas are built next to each other with endless walls. Other parts of Costa Rica are experiencing similar development. Areas like Tamarindo, Nosara, Jaco and Hermosa have become Little California's, evening touting their SoCal legends such as Robert August, Corky Carroll, etc.
Weather	March and April are the hottest months - the Papagayos blow hard and steady heat across Nicaragua into the Guanacaste region. We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of cold beer and fruit juices at "sodas" or other places, and slowing down our pace. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Lacking rain it makes for very dusty conditions.
Surf conditions	There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from chest high to overhead south/southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 1 foot in Tamarindo to 8-10' at the standout SW exposed breaks. We surfed a range of beach, rivermouth, point and reef breaks. The beach breaks featured gradually sloping sand bottoms. The reef breaks included coral and lava rock bottoms, from smooth to jutting. Several days featured Papagayo's strong offshore winds (20+ kts); other days the winds were lighter and vairable. Water ranged from the upper 70s to a cool 68-70 due to upwelling from the Papagayo's. The air was so warm that it the cool water was not a factor.
Food	A breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). If you eat comida tipico, i.e., local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. Casado plates are inexpensive, tasty and filling - usually include a choice of meat or fish, rice and beans, a vegetable, potato or yam, and maybe banana chips or egg). The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more, although Tamarindo features several good Italian eateries where you can buy inexpensive pasta, sandwiches and pizza. You can eat some gringo food if you insist! They say you can eat for $3/meal, and it's true, but we ate like KINGS for about $5-$8.00/meal. Water was good and people ate salads and vegetables at the hotels without problem, but caveat emptor wherever you might be..
Crime	It exists. Petty crime. During a prior trip, friends had their sandals ripped off during dawn patrols at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving us of our backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error. However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license. They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly. Nicer out in the country where we stayed early during this year's trip but there was a night watchman with rifle nonetheless.
Money	USA dollars were accepted in all the local beach towns and beach oriented businesses, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change. Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. There are several ATM machines in Tamarindo. Warning: the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple (my VISA ATM card worked).
Other expenses
Other activities	Nightlife: You can find the xxx in Tamarindo. Seems to be a growing business. Enough said! Fishing. Yes. Surfing trips to Ollies and Witche's Rock: Yes, but I heard of people makeing trips 4 days running and getting burned by onshore winds or crowds. Canopy Tour/Zip Line: We didn't know what to expect or where this was located. Turns out that it's located in the nearby Tamarindo-Langosta dry forest hills. From the main site you have an excellent view of Tamarindo Bay and Langosta. You zip via a harnesss on these steel lines from station-to-station (tree to tree) in an old growth forest, about 8 stations total. Exhilirating. An excellent way to spend an hour or two during down time. See the pictures in the photo section. Cost was about $30 to $35 per person.
Surf gear	Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. But, next time I will take a back-up pair of flippers, back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses and lens solutions.
Other gear	Don't forget a flashlight and fresh batteries... you will probably need it. It's one of many items on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs but our villa did not have a 3-prong outlet.

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Last updated on 07/04/06