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Surf Trip to Costa Rica

Hotwash Report, Tamarindo:  April 2-9, 2003


Transportation A travel agent arranged for a non-stop flight from Baltimore (BWI) to Liberia International Airport (LIR), a charter flight with Apple Vacations, for about $500/pp. LIR is about one hour from Tamarindo, saving at least four hours of drive time to/from San Jose International. Liberia is a good staging point for central to northern Guanacaste surf breaks. About three weeks before departure the agent called to inform us that Apple Vacations had consolidated the BWI flight with the Philadelphia to Liberia flight, offering a refund.  At that point we had the option of re-booking with Delta on a flight connecting via Atlanta for a similar price or flying out of Philadelphia. The group preferred flying non-stop. After a brief bargaining period the agent secured ticket price reductions that covered the expense of driving to/from Philadelphia plus the cost for rooms at a PHL airport hotel with a park/fly package and regular airport shuttles. The charter airline, USA 3000, provided average service on an Airbus 320. The seating was average to poor, but above-average meals were provided.

Check-in and luggage pick-up went smoothly on both ends, but I had to pay $50/each way for my paipo board, something I have not done in over 15 years -- the same price as an 8' board bag jammed with 3 surfboards -- or an unwrapped bodyboard. My board sustained a minor rail ding on the transit south, but several rail dings cracks or serious abrasions on the transit back north -- the worse damage in my last 20+ flights. There is not much recourse for reimbursement on a charter flight... we shall see. Next time I will book the Delta flight.

Car rental Alamo was late arriving to the airport, finally arrived in a subcompact, turned around and fetched a van, and off we were to pick up our car. There was no record of our reservation. With confirmation slip in hand the local Alamo agency honored our rate & car type, a Toyota 4WD 4-Runner. Lucky for us they had a car on the lot. The boys packed up the gear while I worked out the details in a running conversation in spanglish. The rental was $385/wk plus mandatory $12 daily local liability insurance. They also wanted to sell me about 4 other varieties of insurance but I repeatedly declined, show the rental agreement and noted it was covered by my gold card.  The only damage we ended up sustaining was a broken antenna that fell off the car on first contact with the branch of a hibiscus bush. The local Alamo agency charged me in excess of $100 for labor and parts - next step is dealing with my credit card company. Thankfully, the thieves that broke into our vehicle caused no damages.  Budget also services Liberia, is competitively priced, and has a wide selection of vehicles -- my choice for a future trip.

The Toyota 4-Runner is the vehicle to use in Costa RIca, during rainy or dry season. These vehicles are ruggedized for Latin America. During my trip 14 years ago, one of these 4-Runners worked wonders as we traversed through raging streams and rivers where bridges had stood the day before. Our vehicle was adequately sized for the 5 of us traveling to and from the airport with all our gear (paved roads). As it turned out we didn't *need* 4-WD on this trip, on the edge of the green season, but it useful for driving up steep and rocky dirt roads, sported ruggedized tires, and provided extra clearance, all features that could be lacking on a smaller 4-WD or a standard 2-WD vehicle.  Our vehicle had standard roof racks, a real plus. Combined with rack pads and extra long straps this combo worked like a charm.

Hotel Our villa, El Jardín del Edén (also see this link), was sweet. Rooms were plenty large, stocked with mini-frigs at reasonable prices and plenty of room to stock your own refreshments and foods; good bedding, in-room safe, cable TV and air conditioning (recommended for chilling mid-day during our heat wave). The villa also featured two pools (swim up bar and regular roaming pool with ample size to do light swimming and find some shade) with plenty of lounge chairs, small tables and shade and plenty of shrubs and plants; an excellent restaurant (full breakfast of comida tipica, eggs any style, french toast, fresh fruit and squeezed juices, etc. included); and a good location. Located up the hill from the beach (directly up from El Diria and Hotel Dolly), it was a short walk (couple hundred meters) to the beach, but located off the busy, noisy and dusty main street of Tamarindo. A good value, priced less than the very nice Diria (located on the beach), about the same as the Best Western Vista Villas (their rooms have better views of Tamarindo Bay but their common areas are not as nice, their rooms appear to be smaller, but this is still a good option), and more than several other places that do not feature such amenities as a/c. Regardless, our place, the Vista Villas and Diria are all great for taking the wife or girl friend. An all-inclusive in Playa Langosta, Barcelo Playa Langosta Resort & Casino, has a great location for riding the lobster reefs, but the food is anglo stinky and the atmosphere is ordinary. Around the bend in Tamarindo Bay south is Hotel Capitan Suizo - near one of favorite mellow surfing beaches for Kirk and Pat, Old Man's.  Both of these are too far for walking into Tamarindo. Another option is to rent a house. There are plenty of other options. I'd return to El Jardín del Edén, no brainer.
Roads The road from Liberia to Tamarindo is a paved, 2-lane highway. The road was in decent condition during our visit at the end of dry season, but I suspect it becomes very pot-holed during rainy, or "green" season.  The roads from Tamarindo to nearby locations are paved for short distances:
- to Playa Grande: paved about half-way before turning to graded dirt.
- to Playa Langosta: the turnoff from town immediately turns to graded dirt. There may be a few briefly paved sections in Langosta.
- to Playa Negra: paved maybe half-way to Avellanes and/or Playa Negra before becoming a mix of graded dirt and semi-gutted dirt in places. 

Green season can be a completely different ball game (as I know so well from my Oct 1988 trip).

Destination Tamarindo was a good choice for our group because of its easy access by air (Liberia International Airport) and car; a wide range of lodging; diversity of local or nearby surf break types and conditions; and other amenities such as surf board rentals, ATM, bank and other recreational opportunities. A wide variety of restaurants and bars plus some shopping opportunieis make it an ideal location to take a non-surfing spouse or girf friend. April was a good selection since it is the beginning of the season for south swells but still in the dry season. No comment on the quality and access to medical facilities in Tamarindo or Liberia.
Weather March and April are the hottest months. Guess we didn't know that!  We survived by taking plenty of dips in the pool or ocean, chilling in our a/c'd villa rooms, drinking lots of beer and fruit juices at sodas or other places, and slowing down our pace. High temperatures averaged in the upper-90s to low-100s. Ticos kept telling us it was "muy calor" (very hot) so it wasn't just us coming from this year's cold Mid-Atlantic. Without any rain it made for very dusty conditions.
Surf conditions There was ridable surf everyday, ranging from chest high to overhead southwestly swells -- surf sizes ranged from 2 feet when tucked inside a cove to double overhead at the standout SW exposed breaks.

We surfed a ranges of beach, rivermouth, point and reef breaks. The beach breaks featured gradually sloping sand bottoms. The reef breaks included coral and lava rock bottoms, from smooth to jutting.

Our first few days featured strong offshore winds (20+ kts); the last couple of days the winds were lighter and vairable. Winds were usually calm until 7:30am and then picked up again after high noon before calming towards sunset.

Water in Playa Tamarindo was cool (68F-70F?) the first couple of days due to upwelling, but warmer south towards Playa Negra. Water temps ranged in the low- to mid-70s for the balance of the trip.

Food A full breakfast was included with our room (see "Hotel" above). Because I am a coffee nut, and our room didn't have a coffee maker (the apartment does), searching out some early morning cafe was high on my (Rod's) priority list. The only place open and serving coffee at dawn patrol hours was the restaurant at the north end of town, east side.  A nice steaming cup of cafe con leche, served in a plastic beer cup, ran about ¢300, about $0.75US.

If you eat comida tipica, or local Costa Rican cuisine, you can do very well. The food is reasonably priced, tasty, and nourishing. You can also eat gringo food for much more, although Tamarindo features several good Italian eateries where you can buy inexpensive pasta, sandwiches and pizza. We choose NOT to eat gringo-style when we travel so pizza was off our list. They say you can eat for $3/meal, and it's true, but we ate like KINGS for about $5.00-7.00/meal. We talked to some other Americans who said they couldn't find a meal for under $20......HUH?

Basic foods:

Crime It exists. Petty crime. Kirk and Neal had their sandals ripped off during DP at the Tamarindo Bay beach. Kirk also had xxx taken. Some "kindly" thieves broke into our vehicle at Playa Langosta, relieving Neal and Kirk of their backpacks, including some binoculars, lotions and a throwaway camera; relieving me of $40US plus some colones, a large Aloegator and some lens solutions, all these in a plastic bag -- that was my stupid error.  However, they did leave my regular prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses, my lens case and driver's license.  They also locked the vehicle when they were finished! There is also an very evident drug and prostitution business in Tamarindo. Plan accordingly.
Money USA dollars were accepted in all the local beach towns and beach oriented businesses, but stick to small currencies for facilitating change. Some places don't accept large currencies of colones or dollars. If you want to change dollars to colones in the bank you can expect the process to last an hour or more. An ATM machine for making colones withdrawals is available in the Vista Villas reception (5 percent charge) - the ATM did not accept all ATM/debit cards so you may want to take a couple (my VISA ATM card worked).
Other expenses
Other activities Nightlife: xxxx. Enough said!

Fishing:  Pat hired a fishing boat on the last day of our tirp and ventured solo. If we'd had a flat swell mid-trip or were going to in Costa Rica longer others in our group would have loved to join him. The prize catch, a 20 lb. yellow fin tuna, graced our dinner plates that evening.

Canopy Tour/Zip Line: We didn't know what to expect or where this was located. Turns out that it's located in the nearby Tamarindo-Langosta dry forest hills. From the main site you have an excellent view of Tamarindo Bay and Langosta. You zip via a harnesss on these steel lines from station-to-station (tree to tree) in an old growth forest, about 8 stations total. Exhilirating. An excellent way to spend an hour or two during down time.  See the pictures in the photo section.  Cost was about $30 to $35 per person.

Surf gear Every one had everything that they needed. We had ample supplies of wax, sunblock, ding repair patch stuff, towels, duct tape, medical equipment, etc. But, next time I will take a back-up pair of flippers, back-up skegs and plenty extra pairs of contact lenses (I can't remember the last time a contact lens was lost while surfing, but I managed to lose both while cutting hard back into a wall of whitewater to angle away from the exposed reef on my final ride in. Another lens was lost during our electricity outage on the first night.  Within the first two days I was already down 3 lenses). 
Other gear Flashlight. Why didn't we (Beth and I) take a flashlight? It's on my Traveling Surfer's List of Supplies. Oh well - it would have been useful during our electrical outage the first night.  Could have used a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter -- Costa Rica used standard USA electrical currents and plugs but our villa did not have a 3-prong outlet.

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