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When:
Where:
Weather:
Surf:
Tides:
Who: |
Mon.,
December 30, 2002
PdP early, Wilderness
later (somewhere on the west and north coasts)
Sunny, water clear (trunks
& short/longsleeve lycras)
Overhead at both spots
w/no current
High early, low later
Myself and one other;
Alex & Rod plus the crowd |
Alex
and I joined a local bodyboarder for the paddle out, but Alex didn't make
it out after 15 minutes and just went back in. PdP usually has a channel
to the north, but for some reason there have been lot's of waves breaking
there... some even ridable. There has been lot's silt buildup this
year that has really clouded the local waters when there's the high surf
for a couple of days or lot's of on-shore wind. I wasn't out in the line-up
very long before a clean-up set rolled through catching me just inside.
This was not a duck-diving wave nor one you wanted to just turnaround and
let it roll through you since even at high tide the inside reef is still
nearly dry. With a good leash and nobody else around, I dismounted and
attempted swimming under the wave but the white water hitting the 6 foot
deep reef had other intentions. After getting pulled this way and that
I finally surfaced but it took the board anoher couple of seconds... it's
usually the other way around. For a moment I feared the leash was wrapped
around a coral outcropping.
The bodyboarder and I each
caught a few waves over the next hour and a half before we gave up on this
very disorganized swell, a mix of longer period but smaller NW and a shorter
period North. The rights were usually better than the lefts at this
"left" break.
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