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[global ernie]

24"x40" hpd inspired and little hand pod. just finished a cubit board today and will post soon if this techy stuff works!!










cheers, global E.

[OG-AZN]

Some nice shaping work on that paipo! What was the initial thickness of the blank vs. the final thickness of the finished board?

[Uncle Grumpy]

SWEET.
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Prone to ride.

[global ernie]

the board was constructed using 4”x2” so it is a labour intensive method even with an electric planer and you waste a lot of material in the process. I don’t have a gadget to be accurate on thickness, it is about 1” at its thickest around the areas where the flats start to go into the rolled edges in the nose area and it is approximately 5/8” in the tail area and is surprisingly flexy.its relative depth is about 1 7/8". the next one will be constructed using 1” thickness and I will scarfe the front areas to get the thickness for this type of foil, too save labour/material and also that 2” thickness is too hard for a jigsaw to be accurate with cutting out the planshape. The reason why I like the HPD style front end is that in some punchy beach break barrels you can ride these things slightly crab wise, the rolled foil up to the harder edge as the wetted area seems to hang nicely in the pocket and you get time to enjoy the view. I like the “omni directional” rocker this type of foil provides, like not so lineal/literal more lateral.

[mrmike]

nice and nicer
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PAIPO ON
blog http://mrmikespaipos.blogspot.com

[kid]

Wow! That paipo look awesome! I think you're right on the hull-ish front end. I find that they work great in bigger or choppy conditions. Be sure to post a ride report!!!!
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"It's not a beer-belly, it's a displacement hull"

www.deluxepaipo.com

[global ernie]

have surfed this board a lot over last 6 months and it is my main paipo board for now.
floats a bit better than the HPD but still easy to dive it and easier to manage in the impact zone. I was influenced by the simmons foil so the transition area of rails between nose and tail are a lot softer but the edges around the tail are much the same as the resin edges you find on a conventional performance board and they continue about 6” up the rail. there is a 3mm concave in the back third. the chines continue through to the tail like the HPD. it is sealed with 2 coats of “china wood oil”.

takeoffs tend to be a bit later than the HPD so often more critical. I find you just got to get that inside edge into the face (a big fin really) then release and keep repeating that process in relation to what the wave is doing, very physical in good waves but you can keep the whole gig in the pocket that way and get those barrels when they happen, also lots of weight transitions, sometimes both hands up the front like holding the steering wheel of your car which can give a hotdog feel then sometimes way of the back like body surfing but with an efficient planning surface.
I have also learnt to never let go (well about 95% of the time) , I don’t like to be attached to it (makes you complacent) and you end up in a sea of pain if you get whacked by an edge. I unfortunately do not have a camera slave, she works ergo I surf.

[Poobah]

You can make your own thickness gadgets....

http://www.quivermag.com/node/755


http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1017716

I personally don't shape using calipers. I sometimes measure the thickness of a board by gently closing a door on the board, and then measuring the gap between the door and door trim.