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Book

 
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d_latimer



Joined: 07 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Book Reply with quote
I saw a new book at Borders last night, "I surf therefore I am" By Peter Kreeft, a Doctor of Philosophy. The last chapter is a sort of manifesto on surfing in the prone position.

Dave
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kage
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 286
Location: Santa Cruz
PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I paipo therefore I am?
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz
PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hello Dave,

Thanks. Was there anything interesting in the manifesto?

There is a web-site for the guy:http://www.peterkreeft.com/about.htm

For some of his surfing thoughts - http://www.peterkreeft.com/topics/surfing.htm

It doesn't feature on the OZ Border's site.

regards

Bob
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puurri



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
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Location: sydney, OZ
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:02 am    Post subject: monotheism Reply with quote
frankly his site and musings? is a wank.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Puurri,

I didn't stop to read his more philosophical writings & the religious stuff wasn't my cup of tea.

I'm in the process of finalising an interview with a 60s Torquay bellyboarder, who looks like he used a similar technique to Barry - poised over the nose of the board. They rode very solid Winki on 3' ply boards. Interesting stuff.

Ever heard of Bob McDermott from Maroubra?

Bob
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puurri



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
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Location: sydney, OZ
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
bgreen wrote:
Puurri,

I didn't stop to read his more philosophical writings & the religious stuff wasn't my cup of tea.

I'm in the process of finalising an interview with a 60s Torquay bellyboarder, who looks like he used a similar technique to Barry - poised over the nose of the board. They rode very solid Winki on 3' ply boards. Interesting stuff.

Ever heard of Bob McDermott from Maroubra?

Bob


Barry's technique was fairly universal for the 'nulla reef breaks incl Voodoo that was firing up big time today!!!. There were a few who persisted with the flat body approach but they had limited manouvreability on waves.

Barry did surf Bells and it was BIG!

The lie downs usually used ply finless boards with a timber moulding as a handle (or metal cupboard handles). Died out fairly quickly.

Don't know McDermott but there were a few over there with nicknames; Neil the Seal being one I remember (KRAFT y'know)
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Puurri,

When did paipo/bellyboards disappear from the lineup at Cronulla? Who else was surfing them besides Barry & yourself?

I have been working on a history of Oz bellyboarding which I'll post online when I am happy with it. If you wanted to see a draft let me know.

Bob
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puurri



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
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Location: sydney, OZ
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yep,

Gis us a draft for comment. From a (failing) memory abt 5 fellas used Barry's designs locally. Then kneeboards and some spoons took favour.
Northside it never really took off except for kneeboards that at the time were mostly overbuoyant Greenough super finned flexi single fin pigs emulating the 7' 11" trend.

The real poor folks used coolites and then abt 1970 most of us had moved away. There is a CD by a Menzies fella that has some footage of the Point on big days and Voodoo and Pemulwuy Rocks (Merries Reef) very big in the background.

Vooie was HUGE early today! No-one out as it closed out a few times. Dobroyd bommie in Sydney Harbour up to 8 ft plus Hawaiian scale.
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Puurri,

Pm me an e-mail address. I don't think I have one for you.

Does the footage include bellyboarding? The Gold Coast remains small, though there are some very definite long lines coming through.

regards

Bob
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puurri



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
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Location: sydney, OZ
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject: book Reply with quote
PM sent,

From memory maybe 2 bellyboard shots and lots of footage of kneeboards.

Fellas name is Darryl Menzies, shoots for Swellnet?, mainly boogers at Shark Island and 'nulla point. DVD available for $20 plus post ex Sydney.


P
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