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Birdie
Joined: 20 Jan 2004 Posts: Location: so cal
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:24 pm Post subject: Best kind of wave for Paipo riding |
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What's your favorite type of wave and why?
A-Frames?
rockreef point breaks?
Fast-steep?
Slow laid back rollers?
Others.... |
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doc Dolphin Glider

Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Posts: 171 Location: the Frozen Northeast aka New England
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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easier to illustrate than describe.
it's all about fast, having to get it right or there's consequences. No kooks on long tanks getting in the way, where it's no longer a social occasion but me vs. wave and that needs some concentration. |
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rodndtube Dolphin Glider

Joined: 06 Jan 2004 Posts: 690 Location: USA, MD, Baltimore
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Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2004 7:37 am Post subject: |
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Coral reef point break, fast, steep (but that goes without saying). My margin of fun is usually in the 10' and under range although I prefer head-high plus. really picky! _________________ rodNDtube
"Prone to ride"
I love my papa li`ili`i |
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Nels Dolphin Glider
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 340 Location: Ventura County, California
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Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2004 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Favorite type of wave:
Uncrowded, halfway warm, preferably a point.
Anybody seen one of those combos in the U.S. since 1994?
Seriously...well, those comments were fairly serious actually...but seriously I like points. I don't ride them much any more due to circumstances beyond my control, but when I have surfing dreams they are usually points, and when I'm thinking it I realized a year or so ago that I'm usually using points of reference. I'm not at all sure that I've outgrown my teenage years riding point waves without leashes, which comes as quite a surprise given how long ago all that was. Something about the concept of trimming a single fin...flight...led me back into non-bodyboard prone territory in search of my Superman cape... |
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rodndtube Dolphin Glider

Joined: 06 Jan 2004 Posts: 690 Location: USA, MD, Baltimore
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Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2004 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like how our East Coast can be during the early Fall. Into the late fall you can actually get some very nice uncrowded waves, esp. by Calif standards, and ones that are not that cold -- just not as consistently big as Calif -- our Dec 11 swell was great, well over head and running in the low 50s in the Mid-Atlantic -- such a relief after a soooo crowded swell the week before in San Diego -- so good to be home!
P.S. Technically, they'll tell ya that Hawaii is USA  _________________ rodNDtube
"Prone to ride"
I love my papa li`ili`i |
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tumak Dolphin Glider

Joined: 10 Jan 2004 Posts: 131 Location: FL, Indian Harbour Beach
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Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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Here in central FL we have relatively consistent small surf. Occasionally, it gets epic. I ride almost anything, but what I personally dig are just sweet waves in the head-high range, nice shoulders, breaking hollow. I do, however, also like waves with white water that just rolls down from the top...nice walls with easy off-the-lips with lots of time and room for cutbacks. I'm not sure why it is, but on sweet lefts I like to drift up the face of a wave and just play with the lip...flirting with the crest. Doing this, and then re-entering, is just a fun feeling! And, just trimming out and flying down the line on a fast wave is awesome. As I'm just discovering new techniques, I find that grabbing the outside rail at the nose and just leaning into the wave is just a great move...perhaps the stoke equivqlent to trimming out and noseriding on a longboard. But doing this move and then watching the curl pitch out overhead is a unique paipo experience available often to paipo riders, but only at special moments for standing surfers.
What I don't like are waves that I call "whumpular." These are waves that just offer nothing but closeout dredging suicide in very shallow zones. There are places in the world, which have good form, that are famous for being like this, but here in central FL it's usually just not pleasant, at least for me. I like large waves, but I like 'em breaking with good form in normal depths of water, so I don't have to worry about waking up dead below the neck in some hospital, or even waking up dead, tailspinning into the Clear Light. |
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