I arrived home at 10:45pm. The trip wasn't too bad.... mostly. Heavy
rains from Rocky Mount in to Raleigh, so hard that folks were pulling
over. Clearer skies until I hit the mountains where the wind was
bad, I thought I was going to lose the board. Or my car.
The good:
What a great bunch of folks!
The bad:
Getting held under for a couple of waves and getting to feel my "mammalian reflex" work.
The ugly:
Someone walking around in their tighty whities.
I need to sleep, I am one tired pup.
I had fun even though I missed out on the prime days. Nice folks, everyone was super laid back.
We scored on Thursday night at the lighthouse, I was at the 3rd break,
Chris was at the 1st jetty. 2 locals (older guys) were out
longboarding, they were a treat to watch. Very stylish.
I was out almost solo, mostly knee rides. Thicker walls, I got covered
once in a dry tube, the other times it was a wet cover. Took the wave
of the day, made the drop, hit a huge piece of chop and got air,
landed upside down then the lip hit me. Took a while to get that grin off of my face. :D
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