Don't knock it till ya try
it. I had a blast, surfed till the point of exhaustion and went back out
for more. I've surfed many places and can say the "Banks" ranks up
with the best I've had the pleasure to surf including but not limited to
Hawaii and Australia. If any East-coasters find a half used Fuji water
cam please process and post the pic.s. You'll like what ya see.
Avon calling… Avon, N.C.
that is. Damn long drive from Raleigh to the Outer Banks. I
arrived in the early afternoon and just past the Inlet I noticed a spot
with quite a few folks looking out to sea from the dunes. There was
a nice lil car park with open spaces so I parked the car and walked over
for a look-sea. Damn! Head high + lines were breaking just
offshore and there was very few people out.
Scanning the dunes I noticed
a couple of guys checking out the line up. At first glance I thought
the board was a kneeboard but the guy looked familiar…hmmmmmmmmmmm.
Hey Rod??? It was
Rod and Foon. After quick introductions I ran back to my rental and
changed, grabbed my board and hit it with Rod while Foon took up station
in the dunes to snap some pic.s. Several hours and quite a few very
fun waves later
Rod indicated it was time
to go open the house and we were off down the 12.
What a great start.
I wasn't expecting such good waves but was damn glad to have them.
The rest of the crew filtered in and introductions were made all round.
Sunday groups went out in
different directions in search of surf. I opted to hit the beach
in front of the house. The surf seemed bigger and the beach was much
steeper here in Avon. The shore pound took some getting used to,
as walls of white water waist high would come rolling in. Once ya
were about 15 – 20 yards out the rest of the paddle out was rather easy.
The set waves were breaking only a few hundred yards out, quite a difference
from home breaks. After about three hours I came in and had some brunch
and a few brews and was back out and ready for more.
The afternoon session was
a hoot. Regularly a set of big waves would come marching over the
horizon and we would scramble out to meet them. With the tide change
the water cleaned up and turned a beautiful green, thunder storms rumbling
in the distance added to the drama of the scene. I hung outside and
waited for the bigger waves. Ya had to pick and choose as some of
these would close out without much warning.
I remember dropping in on
one going right and was quickly blinded by spray. I felt my way along and
was still dropping and gaining speed and finally got a view of the shoulder
and kept going. I knew I had caught a big wave and was thinking I
was going to make it when the lights went out. My board was ripped
from my hands and I didn't know which way was up, I got lucky and popped
up but my board was nowhere in sight. I finally spotted it about
thirty yards inside and began swimming towards it but before I could reach
it another wall of white water pushed it further inside. I figured
it was going all the way to the beach but it found a quiet spot between
the bars and I was able to reach it and paddled back out.
The storms were getting closer
and it was harder to pick out the waves from the dark horizon. I
went in and took my turn cooking dinner. After dinner Foon took center
stage and presented the GP awards. I knew I'd get the distance award
but the "down-the-line" freight train award was a surprise. Whoooooooo
hooooooo! |
