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Shorebreak buffoon

 
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HIpaipo



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
Posts:
Location: Oahu,Ewa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:04 am    Post subject: Shorebreak buffoon Reply with quote

Anyone here have to get through and in a shore break? If so, how do you do it? Ride onto the sand and get up or walk onto the shore after standing in the shallow water by the shore, or some other way ? Used my UDTs at Makaha today and stumbled around with the shorebreak pushig me around. Should I use shorter fins next time?
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bgreen



Joined: 20 Feb 2004
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Location: Qld. Oz

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HIpaipo,

Like a lot things - it all depends.

I think a nasty scenario is where you can just get to your feet but the surge is wanting to pull you back into the next wave. I usually go for the ride as far up the beach as I can then scramble to get a fin off. Getting a broken whitewater helps for this.

Then there is catching the behind of the wave so you are getting drawn along without being in the wave. Mistimed this could get heavy, but can work.

Other options include, send the board in and bodysurf (not an option where there are rocks of course.

Then again, Makaha may present special shorebreak challenges from what I have seen.

If you need a longer fin out there, I would stick with it.

Bob
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kage
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 286
Location: Santa Cruz

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My best displays of buffoonery are clambering up stairs or rocky cliffs that extend into deep water, pretty common in Santa Cruz. Many times I end up crawling rather than risk getting sucked out again with no fin on.
In beach break I typically ride up as far as I possibly can then walk backwards (while gazing out to sea in a pensive and noble way...)
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HIpaipo



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
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Location: Oahu,Ewa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help, don't wanna "make a$$" next time. Asked my dad, who grew up in Hawaii Kai, and was a regular at Makapuu, what to do, he said to ride the wave onto the shore. So, I went to my usual break and practiced riding onto the shore and getting up. Got a technique going, so I'm ready for round 2 with Makaha Very Happy
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HIpaipo



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
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Location: Oahu,Ewa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a pic I took of the shorebreak

http://hipaipo.deviantart.com/art/Makaha-9-26-09-Shorey-138483678
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rodndtube
Dolphin Glider


Joined: 06 Jan 2004
Posts: 690
Location: USA, MD, Baltimore

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the waves move up to head high and larger ωWe have some rather nasty shore dumps along the USA East Coast since it is mostly sandbar breaks. Most shore dump to me is equivalent to "neck breaking opportunities" so I don't try to ride it in unless there is a smooth entry opportunity. My board has skegs and my feet have flippers. In these situations I will dismount the board and walk it in holding on to the board via the leash. Still need to take it easy but it is easier to manage myself with the ebb and flow of the shore crashers and also some separation from my board.
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rickm



Joined: 16 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Rod on this one. At one of the GPs the shorebreak was at least head high. Got in as close as possible then as the last wave of the set passed. more or less made a made dash for the beach. Def neck breaking conditions.
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