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[rickm]

Down here for a week for the "first annual dysfunctional family trip". The folks, me and my daughter and my brother his his GF are all locked up in one place.

Went down to the lighthouse yesterday. Not too packed but not too good. Break was all over the place, shifting constantly. I caught a few on my bodyboard and 3 on my longboard.

This morning I went back to the lighthouse, heading to a spot south of the jetty (where griz, rod and I caught a nice PM session our last day of GP last year). Hit the beach and wow, packed. By the looks of the bikinis they're all Quebecois. Paddled my 9'8" around the "surf camp" kids, settled into a break.

1st wave rolls through. I'm not paying attention (I think the bikinis had something to do with it). I manage to dig in deep and catch a wave. Nice waist high...made the drop, cut sharply and had a fun down the ride line. Beached it, said "hi" to some mom who wasn't expecting to see me, then back out. This continued for a couple of hours before a guy from Abington, VA (about an hour from me) paddled over and we chatted. Nice guy who was learning to surf. Over the course of my 3 hour session I caught a dozen waves. Some where fun, others, well, I pearled it once then did an impressive face plant in 12" of water. The kids thought it was funny.

I came out for a smoke and switched to my bodyboard. Paddled out to the same spot for the view. The guy from Abington paddled out on his bodyboard, we shot the bull between sessions. After 45 min I decided to head back to the house to eat/drink/nap.

Pretty day. 80F water, 80F air with a light breeze. I hope this continues for the rest of the week.

Aloha,
Rick

ps wish I had red today, the steep faces would have been a blast on it!

[rodndtube]

Yes, you do need Red. It should be ready at Austin's now. Terry reported it was on the racks at his shop along with my Austin. Hatteras sounds nice... looking forward to GuidoPalooza in 31 days
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rodNDtube
"Prone to ride"
I love my papa li`ili`i

[rickm]

Tell Austin to make a trip down to hatteras today. He can call me on the cell.

Nice time out at the light today...same conditions, a little bit smaller, a lot less crowded. Longboard only today...lots of fun. Going back out after I eat and kill off a G&T.